AM #15 Ambre – AM #19 Fiona
Two days, one rental car, countless onions, a little tea, and a whole lot of rain.
Sometimes, a trip doesn’t quite go as planned… and that’s exactly what makes it memorable.
For our little weekend getaway, Fiona and I decided to explore Awaji Island by rental car. We had two days to drive around the island, stop wherever we felt like it, discover beautiful places, eat good food, and finally explore the famous “onion island” we had been hearing about for months.
The weather, however, had other plans. Rain followed us throughout the entire weekend, and the wind decided to join in during our only evening there! But a little bad weather wasn’t going to stop us. We were excited to get away for the weekend, and armed with what was probably not enough rain protection, we set off to see what Awaji had to offer.
Day 1
Our first stop was Awaji Hanasajiki, a flower park overlooking Osaka Bay. We weren’t expecting too much from the flowers, as we weren’t visiting during what we imagined would be the most spectacular season.
Still, there were some lovely patches of colour scattered across the fields, brightening up the otherwise rather green landscape. Despite the cloudy sky and the occasional drizzle, the views over the sea were beautiful.
It was a gentle start to our island adventure and a good reminder that you don’t always need perfect weather to find something worth seeing.
Next, we headed to Awaji Yumebutai, a rather unusual architectural complex designed by the renowned Japanese architect Tadao Ando.
If you enjoy architecture, this place is definitely worth a visit. The minimalist concrete structures, geometric staircases, terraces, and gardens create a fascinating mix of architecture and nature. Despite all the concrete, the complex feels surprisingly peaceful, with greenery woven throughout the design.
We also visited the greenhouse, where we discovered a colourful collection of plants. One little detail caught our attention: a tea made from marigold flowers. And naturally, anything tea-related is bound to catch our eye! Two older ladies were selling their summer harvest there, which made the visit feel even more special. Between the architecture and the greenhouse, we could easily have spent much longer exploring the complex.
But after all that walking, it was time to investigate one of Awaji’s most famous local ingredients: its onions.
Awaji Island is particularly well known for its sweet onions, and we certainly weren’t going to leave without trying some. We stopped at Cheese Factory, where we ordered onion rings and a hamburger made with Awaji onions.
Crispy onion rings, a juicy burger, and a lovely view of the sea right next to the restaurant. All while staying sheltered from the rain. Honestly, not a bad lunch at all!
Our next stop was Honpukuji Temple, home to the famous Water Temple, also designed by Tadao Ando.
From the outside, the large oval lotus pond looks almost like a peaceful, minimalist water garden. But the real surprise is what lies beneath it.
To enter the temple, you descend a staircase that cuts through the pond and leads to an underground sanctuary. The architecture is simple yet powerful, making the visit feel like an experience in itself rather than just another temple stop.
It’s a fascinating place where contemporary architecture and spirituality come together, and definitely one of the highlights of our first day.
After checking into our accommodation and taking a little time to rest, we headed out again to explore the area around Sumoto.
We had hoped to enjoy some time at the beach, but the weather had become even less cooperative. Between the rain, the cold, and the strong winds, swimming was definitely off the table!
Instead, we admired the sea for a little while before discovering some small foot baths nearby. After spending so much time in the cold and wind, dipping our feet into the warm water felt absolutely wonderful. Sometimes, it’s the simplest things that make a trip!
We then wandered through Sumoto’s Retro Street, a charming area where we could slow down and explore the town a little. As evening approached, we stopped for a bowl of ramen before heading back to our hotel.
And just like that, day one was done.
We hadn’t seen much sunshine, but we had discovered flowers, impressive architecture, local food, a temple hidden beneath a pond, and a surprisingly relaxing way to end a rainy afternoon.
Not bad for a day when the weather clearly wasn’t on our side!
Part 2 on a second blog coming soon!